Who gets paid?
This is a somewhat controversial topic and not everyone agrees. This is my opinion and it’s the guiding principles that I follow for my business model.
First let’s define a common acronym that is crucial to this very topic, TFP. Originally, during the days of film, this stood for time for print. Meaning everyone gave their time in exchange for a copy of the prints from that shoot. Now to adapt to technology it’s probably more accurate to say time for pics (or photos, or pictures). The premise is the same, everyone is giving their time, skills, etc for copies of the pictures and (this is important) the right to use them. The right to use them has exceptions. Nobody should be selling, or otherwise receiving compensation for the pictures. This could be to a magazine, or for advertising. For example, if the model tags Dior beauty in their IG post and Dior messages and says “Hey we want to use those pictures they’re amazing. We’ll pay you $500.” That would usually violate the usage agreement. If that model reaches out to the other people involved and they agree to it and want to split the $500 then it’s ok. One thing to mention about TFP, studios don’t usually let you use their space in exchange for TFP, somebody is paying $ for that studio. It is common for the studio and lighting expenses to be divided up or the photographer agrees to shoot TFP if the model covers the studio cost. I personally take care of the lighting equipment, if the model takes care of the studio fee. Even if it’s the photographers studio, it still costs $ and the photographer has a general idea, based on their average # of photoshoots, what that studio costs per hour.
When should the model get paid? The model should get paid if it’s a commercial shoot and a client is paying for the photos. That’s the obvious one. If the photographer, hair stylist, makeup artist, or wardrobe stylist are hiring people for a photoshoot for their professional portfolio the model could expect to be compensated, unless everyone agrees to shoot TFP. It’s important to remember that a new photographer is not likely going to deliver portfolio level pictures for an experienced model. TFP is generally used when everyone involved is fairly equal in experience level. The same is true for hair, makeup and wardrobe. So whoever is benefiting the most from the photos should pay the others. Don’t be cheap, your ability to get booked is based 95% on your portfolio. Paying for an experienced model who knows how to pose will make for a smoother day and will result in better pictures. Also, if the model is providing her/his own wardrobe that should be factored in as well. Same thing with doing their own hair and makeup.
When should the photographer be paid? I’m a bit biased obviously, since I’m a photographer. It’s safe to say that nobody involved in the photoshoot is bringing more measurable $ value to the photoshoot than the photographer. Lights, light modifiers, light stands, camera gear, all easily add up to well over $10k. So even if skill/experience levels are all equal, the photographer has already spent a lot of money to be able to do this photoshoot. Which is why I usually expect the model to cover the studio cost at a minimum. It’s important to remember that Dior can easily find a really good photographer who would photograph their ad campaign for free, or at least at cost. So why then does Dior spend a lot of $ hiring a photographer? Because you get what you pay for. If you’re hiring a photographer to build your portfolio so that you can get signed and/or booked, you don’t want an amateur photographer who is also starting to build their portfolio. You have to spend $ to make $, is an absolute fact. It is no less true than the laws of physics. For me personally, I only consider TFP, when the photoshoot has a high potential of adding something new or different to my portfolio. The absolute worst, is when somebody says “I have a lot of followers so you’ll get a lot of exposure.” My response to that is “Great, your followers can all pitch in to pay my rent and car payment because otherwise exposure doesn’t mean anything.”
The summary version of this is whoever benefits the most from the photoshoot should pay the people who benefit the least. If all things are equal then shoot TFP.
